The past couple days have been wet due to some light rain and the sky was blanketed by overcast. The surf was nothing special, and the nights were chilly. Today began the same as the days prior, but once noon hit, the sun was beaming down. Every half an hour a huge cloud would disrupt the suns rampage on my skin whilst surfing.Crystal accompanied Dillon and I surfing today: she came out with a body board and fins. She caught the sickest wave by accident, but none-the-less it was incredible. The waves were pretty consistent at Bowl's, and I was able to blast down a couple faces perfectly. The forecast keeps claiming 1-2 ft., but it was a constant 3 ft face, and there were even some shoulder to head high waves. I can now turn without the use of my hands down the face of a wave. Crystal witnessed me eat shit though: I was trying to turn out of a wave, the white wash ate my board, and I literally flew semi-back flipping into the air over the back side of the wave. It was awesome.
The sunset was everything I'd hope it be for a wonderful day. I wish I could have taken a picture of the entire sky. The day would have ended better if I could have attended Matt Longo's party, with surprise guests: Daybeeeeeed, Bobby Gribbon, and Jeremy. I'm off to smoke with Dillon and watch "Dead Leaves" - whatever that is... I have to pickup from Danny, so I'll be smoking with him first. I totally need to goto Costco and buy Q-Tips. Fuck.
1 comment:
1-2 foot means 2-4 face. lawlz.
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